Project GRUMLINER Interior Continued.......

As you can see, the rear door is all one piece now, and there is a nice cover over all the garage door mechanism used to lift it up and down. The good news is that with the cover down, I am able to insulate that whole area above and around the mechanisms very well. The bad news is that there doesn't happen to be a great location in that cover, around that cover or even near that cover for a gear motor to drive that mechanism in order to make that ramp door POWERED. Anything I could do will need to look like a lump or bump somewhere along that back edge.... I guess I will know more when I have time to sit down and calculate exactly what I will need for actual foot pounds to accomplish the lifting. Then I will know how big this "lump" will need to be. At least for now, it goes up and down without too much work. I really want the powered aspect for when you are INSIDE and need to lower the door. You can't just let it fly !

I also finally put an edge around the workbench, but it still needs the full length piano hinge put on it so it can fold up against the wall when necessary. The webbed "basket" hanging on the back wall hooks in such that anyone who wants to watch TV while sitting up there has a place to lean against when the rear door is open. Works excellent. i plan to sew up some more handy things out of 1" nylon webbing as the needs arise. Hopefully over the winter, I can find some upholstery material I like, and then sew up the cushion covers for that bed/seat on the right. This whole truck will essentially be upholstered inside.... I spent over 10 years in automobile and yacht interiors. I just wish I had the money to do it all as nice as I had the freedom to do when I was using OTHER peoples money.... But alas, this is a budget project. MY budget !

Below, I finally found time to pick spots for the table sockets. They have been routed into the floor so they fit flush. The flooring will cover them up except for the main hole. As I was sweating it out working on the truck on a hot day this past summer, I stumbled into a nifty thought. In order to keep inside temperatures down when it is hot, pulling cooler air from UNDER the vehicle was always the plan. The minute I cut the first socket hole, cool air was flowing up from the bottom, and that gave me the idea that I will cut the bottom of those sockets out, connect ductwork to them and push fresh, cooler air into the truck with a bilge blower, I'll cut slots in the table legs so that the air has a nice place to come out when the tables are in place. If I get the slotting in those legs correctly, I might be able to rotate the legs to blow air in specific directions. Care will be taken to properly locate the blower and intake in order to make sure I do not allow dirt or exhaust fumes in while driving.

I wanted to cover up the mechanical access troughs in the top corners where the walls meet the ceiling. So, I made a moulding for each side that also left room for some LED strip lighting to act as indirect lighting when dimmed. This moulding has to be removeable for access when necessary, so it will simply screw to the wall. Behind it, I put in traditional fiberglass insulation, the last of the insulation needs in the rear of the truck.

This is what it looks like stained and cleared. If you look closely, you can see the LED lights up inside of the moulding.

The LED strips I am using are really, REALLY nice. I get them on Ebay along with an RF wireless remote dimmer control. You can cut this stuff anywhere in 3" increments and simply solder on two new leads and apply 12 volts. Each segment has its own voltage regulation. The dimmers can handle 8 amps max, which is a lot given the low amp draw of these strips. I can tell you that on HIGH, they are almost blindingly bright ! Love them, love them, Love them !

Here is the remote.... And the bright lights that now show just how CRAPPY they make LUAN these days !

Looking forward, you can see that I made some doors for all the cubby openings and the head, These doors may be temporary. It all depends on what the final interior design will be. I am still not completely sure what is going to happen in the space just forward of the workbench, but it is like an empty canvas that I am in no hurry to fill. To date, I have dreamed perhaps of a small swivel barrel chair next to a "end table" sort of cabinet forward of that, one that hides my cooler. I will likely always keep a traditional cooler in the truck. Another reason why I am in no hurry to fill that spot is that it just might be where I put one of my CNC engraving machines... I could sell some work at swap meets and tractor shows..... All depends !

The removable kitchenette has come along too... still needs a lot of work though. A door or two, a drawer perhaps....

I also had to get some switches in place to control a few things that were piling up. Turning things on and off by twisting wires together in a wire nut does get a little old. LOL ! This shot lets you see what I made for this as well as my curtain track installation. Since the photo, I have taken a queen size bed sheet, cut it in half and sewed it up for the hooks that connect to those little rollers. The "curtain" is Dk Brown in color and should pull a little solar heat into the cab when its sunny and cold out. It's a little "see thru" though (modern, extra thin cotton - any thinner and it wouldnt be there), so I may sew a "liner" on the back of it at some point.

The actual switches and LED's... the use of the switches for that matter may not remain the way they are. I had to start with something, so I just drew up what I thought I needed and cut it on one of my CNC machines. Easy enough to make correctly down the road.....

Below, you can see that the "plumbing" is going to be quite basic for now. This is on the outside wall of the head. All of this will go behind a removeable panel at some point. For right now though, its all far enough for me to make an appointment at the DMV in order to get my "rv conversion" registration started.

The 39 Gallon holding tank I selected fits perfectly, just ahead of the dual wheels on the drivers side. I bent up a panel of 1/8" aluminum plate and bolted it in front of the duals so that no stones can fly off and puncture the tank. This tank can not be seen from the side of the truck because it does not hang down below the body. Its a bit of a challenge to get to the valve area, but not too bad. To make things easier, it will eventually have a cable controlled valve so all you have to do is attach the hose and pull the cable. Because I shoce to use a traditional porta-potti, this tank will be a grey tank only, making dumping a bit more user friendly. I still have to put two safety straps around the bottom of the tank so I am not solely relying on the tanks top flange for the mounting. In the photo above, you can see a round plug in the floor..... I opted to make it POSSIBLE to access a 3" port in the top of that tank IF necessary.... By necessary, I guess I mean, IF I ever get stuck where I can not dump the porta pot, I COULD dump it into my holding tank. More on this below......

Ahead of the holding tank, there is quite a bit of room for me to fit my "hot water" system for the shower. I hope to install a custom aluminum tank of at least 10 gallons for this. It will be heated by numerous options.... Engine coolant via exchanger, internal heating element, Propane engine heater via exchanger, possibly even a charcoal remote burner that can stand outside the truck. The tank will be insulated better than ANYTHING you can find off the shelf in hopes to retain heat as long as possible.

Below, you can see my sink connection is really quite temporary... the drain hose pulls out of the "Y" headed into the head, Eventually when the hot water is operational, both water feed lines will have nylon quick disconnects that are rigidly mounted.

Here you can see on the passenger side, my 21 gallon cold water tank held up with a stainless steel frame work and behind it, an aluminum box I built for storage. If you remember earlier, I mentioned that the truck ad a big hole cut in the passenger side from when it had propane or CNG tanks on the frame. I modified that hole to fit the RV cabinet hatch/door. I'm not in love with the quality of the door, but I made the box as big as I could. It holds my cold water pump, all my hydraulic jacks and blocking, lug wrench, AC outlet, TV antenna outlet, a few small tarps, Air connection and whatever else I can jamb in there. To the right of the storage box, inside the frame rail I have mounted a 3 gallon Air tank that will eventually be fed by a belt driven compressor I will hang on the engine.

I cut a decent top for the engine cover... I will wrap the rest of the doghouse with a nice carpeting to gain a little insulation value and noise block. The old Sansui is still acting as my "car stereo".... Down the road I might end up with a real one, but this is it for now! That vent on the right is where my Espar heater blows the hot air out. I can tell already that this truck is insulated a lot better than the last. Even with all the aluminum still exposed up front, when it has dropped to the 30 degree mark, the furnace dropped to low and idled there thru the night.

And Finally, I found some nice 1/2" thick closed cell rubber matting to put on the drivers front floor and the main walk "hallway". The hallway portion has 1/2" pink foam under it, and under the floor itself, the truck has a removeable panel for transmission access that has another 3/4" of pink foam under it. So, at least SOME of the exposed aluminum is insulated... still a lot of exposed aluminum yet though. BIG difference in noise transmission when driving.

I will need to wait until the warm weather of next year to get farther along on this project.

2013 Update >

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